Why We Enjoy Returning to Bologna
Why we enjoy returning to Bologna is something we’ve thought about over the years. Born in the beautiful city of Bologna, we spent many years living here before life and travel took us elsewhere. Whenever we’re back in Italy, Bologna is always on our list. We know its streets well, have favourite places to eat and still enjoy wandering beneath the famous porticoes, taking in the relaxed atmosphere that makes the city such an enjoyable place to spend time.
La Dotta, La Grassa and La Rossa
Often affectionately known as La Dotta (The Learned), La Grassa (The Fat) and La Rossa (The Red), Bologna has earned these nicknames through its long history, world-famous university, outstanding cuisine and the distinctive red-brick buildings that colour much of the city. They describe Bologna remarkably well, but they don’t tell the whole story. For us, it’s simply a city we enjoy returning to whenever we’re back in Italy.
Over the years we’ve travelled to many countries, explored busy cities and quiet villages, yet Bologna has never lost its appeal. It doesn’t rely on spectacular monuments or dramatic scenery to impress visitors. Instead, it offers something much more subtle. Life moves at its own pace, people still gather in the squares, long lunches are part of everyday life and there’s always another street worth exploring, even if you’ve walked it many times before.
Piazza Maggiore – The Heart of Bologna
One of the first places we usually head for is Piazza Maggiore, the heart of Bologna for centuries. Whether it’s your first visit or your fiftieth, it’s a wonderful place to sit for a while and simply watch the city around you. The impressive Basilica di San Petronio dominates one side of the square, while the Fountain of Neptune is only a short walk away. Throughout the day you’ll find students, office workers, families and visitors sharing the same public space, giving the piazza an atmosphere that feels lively without ever becoming overwhelming.
Walking Beneath Bologna’s Famous Porticoes
From Piazza Maggiore it’s almost impossible not to find yourself walking beneath Bologna’s famous porticoes. Stretching for almost 40 kilometres throughout the city, they were recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. Besides protecting people from the summer sun and winter rain, they give Bologna its unmistakable character. Every street seems to have its own personality, and no matter how often we return, we still enjoy taking our time beneath these covered walkways.
It’s easy to understand why so many people spend hours simply wandering through the historic centre. You don’t need a strict itinerary here. Some of our favourite moments have been those with no particular destination at all. A quiet street you’ve never noticed before, a small independent shop, or simply taking a different route back to the historic centre often becomes part of the day’s experience.
The Quadrilatero and Bologna’s Food Culture
One place we always like to wander through is the Quadrilatero, Bologna’s historic market district. The narrow streets are lined with food shops, cafés, delicatessens and small businesses that have served locals for generations. Although some stores have changed over the years, the area has kept its traditional character. It’s a pleasant place to spend an hour, whether you’re looking for something to take home or simply enjoying one of Bologna’s oldest neighbourhoods.
Food has always been one of the city’s greatest attractions, and rightly so. Bologna is often called Italy’s culinary capital, and it’s a title it has earned over many generations. While visitors sometimes arrive expecting nothing more than spaghetti Bolognese, they quickly discover that the city’s traditional cuisine is very different.
Fresh tagliatelle al ragù, authentic tortellini in brodo, handmade pasta and Bologna’s famous mortadella all form part of the city’s culinary identity. Meals here are rarely rushed. Sitting down together, appreciating the local cuisine and taking time over lunch remains an important part of everyday life. It’s one of the reasons we always look forward to returning.
Restaurants We Return To
We’ve enjoyed eating in many restaurants throughout Bologna over the years, and a few have become regular favourites whenever we’re back. Like any city, restaurants naturally evolve. Owners retire, chefs move on and menus change, so every recommendation reflects our own experiences at the time of writing rather than a guarantee that everything will always remain the same.
Restaurant Diana has long been one of Bologna’s best-known traditional restaurants, serving classic Bolognese dishes in elegant surroundings. Da Cesari offers another wonderful opportunity to taste local specialities, while Benvenuti has also given us memorable meals over the years. Each has its own character, and that’s part of the pleasure of eating your way through Bologna.
One restaurant that has always stood out for us is Bitone. Besides serving excellent traditional food, it also has an interesting connection to Formula One history. Inside the restaurant you’ll find a photograph of Ayrton Senna during one of his visits. It’s a lovely reminder that even internationally known personalities appreciated Bologna’s food and hospitality.
Photo courtesy of Restaurant Bitone. From left to right: Carlo Cavicchi, former Autosprint director; retired chef Cesare Chiari of Bitone; Formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna; and the late Roberto Guglielmi, then editor-in-chief.
The University of Bologna and Le Due Torri
Bologna is also home to the University of Bologna, founded in 1088 and widely recognised as the oldest university in the Western world. Students from across Italy and around the globe continue to shape the city’s character, bringing energy and diversity while centuries-old traditions remain firmly rooted in everyday life. The result is a city that feels both historic and refreshingly modern at the same time.
No visit would feel complete without spending some time around Le Due Torri – the Two Towers. They have become one of Bologna’s most recognisable landmarks and are impossible to miss while walking through the historic centre. Even if you’ve seen them many times before, they remain one of those places where we always seem to pause for a moment before continuing our walk.
Loiano and the Hills Around Bologna
When we’re looking for a quieter day away from the city, we often head towards Loiano in the hills south of Bologna. The drive itself is part of the experience, gradually leaving the busy streets behind as the landscape changes into rolling countryside and woodland. It’s a completely different side of Emilia Romagna and a reminder that beautiful scenery is never far away.
More Than a Place We Once Called Home
Although Bologna attracts visitors throughout the year, we’ve never felt the need to rush from one attraction to another. For us, the city has always been about taking our time rather than ticking places off a list. A leisurely walk, a relaxed lunch, browsing familiar streets or simply spending time in the city centre is often enough to make the day memorable.
Perhaps that’s why Bologna has remained such an important place in our lives. We lived here for many years, built countless memories and still look forward to returning whenever we have the opportunity. Familiar places continue to feel welcoming, while every visit offers something slightly different from the last.
If you’re planning a trip to Italy, Bologna is well worth adding to your itinerary. Not because it’s trying to compete with cities like Rome, Florence or Venice, but because it offers something uniquely its own. Rich history, outstanding food, beautiful architecture and a relaxed atmosphere are just some of the reasons we always look forward to coming back.
Have you visited Bologna?
We’d love to hear about your favourite places, restaurants or memories in the comments below.
